The Istanbul Guidebook

Where continents meet, minarets kiss the sky, and cats silently judge your life choices.
Getting There: By Plane, By Train, By Romantic Notion
- By Plane: Istanbul has two major airports.
- Istanbul Airport (IST): The shiny new global hub on the European side. Served by Turkish Airlines, Lufthansa, Emirates, Qatar Airways, British Airways, Air France, and almost anyone with wings.
- Sabiha Gökçen (SAW): The Asian-side airport, home turf for Pegasus Airlines and other budget carriers.
- Direct flights: You can fly here directly from nearly every European capital, plus New York, Dubai, Tokyo, and beyond. Budget travelers have plenty of choices with Pegasus, Wizz Air, easyJet, and Ryanair.
- By Train: Istanbul still keeps a romance with the railway. International trains run from Sofia and Bucharest, and domestic trains connect Ankara, Konya, and Eskişehir. They’re modern, comfortable, and perfect for watching Anatolia roll by.
- By Ferry: Ferries crisscross the Bosporus, connecting Europe and Asia multiple times a day. Cheap, scenic, and possibly the best commute you’ll ever have.
Getting Around Istanbul
Istanbul is huge. Think “small country” rather than “city.” Luckily, the transport network is excellent.
- Metro & Tram: Fast, clean, and essential for dodging traffic. Tram line T1 runs past most major tourist sights.
- Ferries: A must. The cheapest Bosporus cruise you’ll ever take.
- Buses & Dolmuş: Regular buses and shared minibuses cover the city, though routes can baffle newcomers.
- Taxi: Cheap by European standards, but use official yellow cabs or apps like BiTaksi.
- Connections Beyond: High-speed trains reach Ankara in 4.5 hours and Konya in 5. Domestic flights whisk you to Cappadocia, Antalya, Izmir, and Bodrum.
Pro Tip: Get an Istanbulkart. It works on metro, tram, ferry, bus, and funicular. Load credit, tap, ride, repeat.
Major Sights (and How to Survive Them)
- Hagia Sophia: The city’s crown jewel. Originally a church, then a mosque, then a museum, and now a mosque again. Free entry, but expect queues. Go early morning.
- Blue Mosque: Famous for its six minarets and stunning tiles. Still an active mosque, so check prayer times before visiting.
- Topkapi Palace: Where Ottoman sultans lived their lavish lives. Don’t miss the Treasury or Harem. Tickets online or on-site.
- Grand Bazaar: A labyrinth of 4,000 shops. Carpets, lamps, spices, jewelry—you’ll get lost, but that’s the point. Closed Sundays.
- Spice Bazaar: Smaller, spicier, and arguably more charming.
- Galata Tower: For panoramic views. Buy tickets online to skip the queue.
- Basilica Cistern: An underground forest of marble columns. Tickets can be bought online or at the door.
- Bosphorus Cruise: Best seen from the water. Regular ferries are the budget-friendly choice, but private tours are more romantic.
Museums Worth Your Time
- Istanbul Archaeological Museums: Ancient treasures from Troy, Babylon, and beyond.
- Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts: Carpets, calligraphy, ceramics.
- Istanbul Modern: Contemporary art with a Bosporus view.
Tickets can be bought online, or at the door outside peak summer weekends. Consider the Museum Pass Istanbul if you’re on a cultural binge.
Eating & Drinking Like a Local
- Breakfast (Kahvaltı): Turks take breakfast seriously. Expect bread, cheese, olives, honey, eggs, cucumbers, tomatoes, and tea. Cafés like Van Kahvaltı Evi make it an event.
- Street Food: Simit (sesame bread rings), roasted chestnuts, döner kebabs, and fish sandwiches at the Galata Bridge.
- Cafés: Order at the counter or take a seat and wait to be served. Always say “bir çay, lütfen” (one tea, please).
- Cheap Eats: Çiya Sofrası in Kadıköy is legendary for regional Anatolian dishes.
- Mid-Range: Hamdi Restaurant (near Spice Bazaar) serves unforgettable kebabs with a view.
- Luxury: Mikla, an Istanbul icon with world-class fine dining and rooftop views.
Pro Tip: How to Order in Cafés
Pointing works, but politeness works better. Always say “teşekkürler” (thank you). Don’t expect split bills—it’s not the done thing.
Etiquette: How to Avoid Tourist Faux Pas
- Dress modestly when visiting mosques. Scarves are provided, but it’s good to bring your own.
- Bargaining in bazaars is expected, but do it with humor, not hostility.
- Queue politely for ferries.
- Don’t pet every cat. Most are friendly, but some are feline emperors who prefer admiration from afar.
Staying Connected
Turkish Wi-Fi is decent, but cafés and hotels aren’t always reliable. For constant connection:
- Buy a prepaid SIM from Turkcell, Vodafone, or Türk Telekom.
- Available at the airport or local shops.
- Packages with several GB of data cost around 15–20€.
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Perfect 5-Day Itinerary
Day 1 – Old City Icons
- Morning: Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern.
- Afternoon: Lunch near Sultanahmet, stroll through Gülhane Park.
- Evening: Dinner at Hamdi, sunset ferry ride across the Bosporus.
Day 2 – Palaces & Bazaars
- Morning: Topkapi Palace.
- Afternoon: Spice Bazaar, Grand Bazaar (don’t forget to haggle).
- Evening: Rooftop cocktails in Beyoğlu.
Day 3 – Across the Golden Horn
- Morning: Climb Galata Tower.
- Afternoon: Explore Istiklal Street and Taksim Square.
- Evening: Dinner at Mikla, then sample Istanbul nightlife.
Day 4 – Asian Side Adventure
- Morning: Ferry to Kadıköy, breakfast at Van Kahvaltı Evi.
- Afternoon: Stroll Moda seaside promenade.
- Evening: Çiya Sofrası for dinner, ferry back at sunset.
Day 5 – Culture & Cruise
- Morning: Istanbul Archaeological Museums.
- Afternoon: Bosporus cruise (budget ferry or private boat).
- Evening: Final feast with meze and raki at a meyhane (traditional tavern).
Final Word
Istanbul is big, bold, and endlessly layered. One moment you’re sipping tea with a street cat on your lap, the next you’re staring up at a Byzantine dome or haggling for a lamp straight out of Aladdin. Romantic, chaotic, and unforgettable—this is a city that will charm you, challenge you, and make you want to come back for more.
