Guide to Istanbul, Turkey

The Istanbul Guidebook

Istanbul

Where continents meet, minarets kiss the sky, and cats silently judge your life choices.


Getting There: By Plane, By Train, By Romantic Notion

  • By Plane: Istanbul has two major airports.
    • Istanbul Airport (IST): The shiny new global hub on the European side. Served by Turkish Airlines, Lufthansa, Emirates, Qatar Airways, British Airways, Air France, and almost anyone with wings.
    • Sabiha Gökçen (SAW): The Asian-side airport, home turf for Pegasus Airlines and other budget carriers.
  • Direct flights: You can fly here directly from nearly every European capital, plus New York, Dubai, Tokyo, and beyond. Budget travelers have plenty of choices with Pegasus, Wizz Air, easyJet, and Ryanair.
  • By Train: Istanbul still keeps a romance with the railway. International trains run from Sofia and Bucharest, and domestic trains connect Ankara, Konya, and Eskişehir. They’re modern, comfortable, and perfect for watching Anatolia roll by.
  • By Ferry: Ferries crisscross the Bosporus, connecting Europe and Asia multiple times a day. Cheap, scenic, and possibly the best commute you’ll ever have.

Getting Around Istanbul

Istanbul is huge. Think “small country” rather than “city.” Luckily, the transport network is excellent.

  • Metro & Tram: Fast, clean, and essential for dodging traffic. Tram line T1 runs past most major tourist sights.
  • Ferries: A must. The cheapest Bosporus cruise you’ll ever take.
  • Buses & Dolmuş: Regular buses and shared minibuses cover the city, though routes can baffle newcomers.
  • Taxi: Cheap by European standards, but use official yellow cabs or apps like BiTaksi.
  • Connections Beyond: High-speed trains reach Ankara in 4.5 hours and Konya in 5. Domestic flights whisk you to Cappadocia, Antalya, Izmir, and Bodrum.

Pro Tip: Get an Istanbulkart. It works on metro, tram, ferry, bus, and funicular. Load credit, tap, ride, repeat.


Major Sights (and How to Survive Them)

  • Hagia Sophia: The city’s crown jewel. Originally a church, then a mosque, then a museum, and now a mosque again. Free entry, but expect queues. Go early morning.
  • Blue Mosque: Famous for its six minarets and stunning tiles. Still an active mosque, so check prayer times before visiting.
  • Topkapi Palace: Where Ottoman sultans lived their lavish lives. Don’t miss the Treasury or Harem. Tickets online or on-site.
  • Grand Bazaar: A labyrinth of 4,000 shops. Carpets, lamps, spices, jewelry—you’ll get lost, but that’s the point. Closed Sundays.
  • Spice Bazaar: Smaller, spicier, and arguably more charming.
  • Galata Tower: For panoramic views. Buy tickets online to skip the queue.
  • Basilica Cistern: An underground forest of marble columns. Tickets can be bought online or at the door.
  • Bosphorus Cruise: Best seen from the water. Regular ferries are the budget-friendly choice, but private tours are more romantic.

Museums Worth Your Time

  • Istanbul Archaeological Museums: Ancient treasures from Troy, Babylon, and beyond.
  • Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts: Carpets, calligraphy, ceramics.
  • Istanbul Modern: Contemporary art with a Bosporus view.

Tickets can be bought online, or at the door outside peak summer weekends. Consider the Museum Pass Istanbul if you’re on a cultural binge.


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Eating & Drinking Like a Local

  • Breakfast (Kahvaltı): Turks take breakfast seriously. Expect bread, cheese, olives, honey, eggs, cucumbers, tomatoes, and tea. Cafés like Van Kahvaltı Evi make it an event.
  • Street Food: Simit (sesame bread rings), roasted chestnuts, döner kebabs, and fish sandwiches at the Galata Bridge.
  • Cafés: Order at the counter or take a seat and wait to be served. Always say “bir çay, lütfen” (one tea, please).
  • Cheap Eats: Çiya Sofrası in Kadıköy is legendary for regional Anatolian dishes.
  • Mid-Range: Hamdi Restaurant (near Spice Bazaar) serves unforgettable kebabs with a view.
  • Luxury: Mikla, an Istanbul icon with world-class fine dining and rooftop views.

Pro Tip: How to Order in Cafés

Pointing works, but politeness works better. Always say “teşekkürler” (thank you). Don’t expect split bills—it’s not the done thing.


Etiquette: How to Avoid Tourist Faux Pas

  1. Dress modestly when visiting mosques. Scarves are provided, but it’s good to bring your own.
  2. Bargaining in bazaars is expected, but do it with humor, not hostility.
  3. Queue politely for ferries.
  4. Don’t pet every cat. Most are friendly, but some are feline emperors who prefer admiration from afar.

Staying Connected

Turkish Wi-Fi is decent, but cafés and hotels aren’t always reliable. For constant connection:

  • Buy a prepaid SIM from Turkcell, Vodafone, or Türk Telekom.
  • Available at the airport or local shops.
  • Packages with several GB of data cost around 15–20€.

Perfect 5-Day Itinerary

Day 1 – Old City Icons

  • Morning: Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern.
  • Afternoon: Lunch near Sultanahmet, stroll through Gülhane Park.
  • Evening: Dinner at Hamdi, sunset ferry ride across the Bosporus.

Day 2 – Palaces & Bazaars

  • Morning: Topkapi Palace.
  • Afternoon: Spice Bazaar, Grand Bazaar (don’t forget to haggle).
  • Evening: Rooftop cocktails in Beyoğlu.

Day 3 – Across the Golden Horn

  • Morning: Climb Galata Tower.
  • Afternoon: Explore Istiklal Street and Taksim Square.
  • Evening: Dinner at Mikla, then sample Istanbul nightlife.

Day 4 – Asian Side Adventure

  • Morning: Ferry to Kadıköy, breakfast at Van Kahvaltı Evi.
  • Afternoon: Stroll Moda seaside promenade.
  • Evening: Çiya Sofrası for dinner, ferry back at sunset.

Day 5 – Culture & Cruise

  • Morning: Istanbul Archaeological Museums.
  • Afternoon: Bosporus cruise (budget ferry or private boat).
  • Evening: Final feast with meze and raki at a meyhane (traditional tavern).

Final Word

Istanbul is big, bold, and endlessly layered. One moment you’re sipping tea with a street cat on your lap, the next you’re staring up at a Byzantine dome or haggling for a lamp straight out of Aladdin. Romantic, chaotic, and unforgettable—this is a city that will charm you, challenge you, and make you want to come back for more.

Istanbul
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